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News / 05/09/2022 / 1643
The peaks of Mt. Kopaonik and Mt. Željin are still covered with snow. Recently erected building of Čokot Winery rises on Staračko Brdo spot, which offers a magnificent and breathtaking view of the slopes around Staračka Poljana. Many wine lovers recognize this winery from Župa by the owner himself - Radovan Đorđević, so it is a logical move that the winery will soon take the new name "Radovan Winery".
The winery building was designed for production of 50,000 liters of wine, but the current production volume does not exceed 30,000 bottles. Radovan Đorđević's wines do not require any special advertising campaign or sales strategy. With very fair prices and an excellent price-quality ratio, his wines feature authentic winemaker's style as well as terroir which is special not only in relation to the rest of Serbia, but also in relation to other parts of Župa region. For that reason, his wines earned loyal fans. It is in the village of Starci that the highest vineyards of Župa are located at an altitude of 620 meters, owned by Čokot Winery.
The view towards Staračka Poljana stretches onto vineyards covering 2.5 hectares, and Radovan optimistically announces that land is being prepared for planting additional 3 hectares next spring on the plot immediately around the winery. Given that the plot is at an altitude of 620 meters and faces south, Prokupac will certainly find its place on it. Currently, Čokot Winery cooperates with a dozen subcontractors, from which it receives Prokupac grapes for the basic Prokupac label called Experiment. For the premium label, only Prokupac grapes from the vineyards owned by Čokot Winery are used.
Every visit to Čokot Winery is special because we witness how the winery takes its final shape... Since my last visit, the winery has received an external facade, additional barrels and tanks in the cellar, the stock of bottles occuppies a good portion of the storage space... Radovan works dedicatedly so that the winery gets its final looks, and in parallel with that, the production of grapes and wine and all the accompanying ongoing work continue uninterrupted throughout the year.
This time, Radovan gave us an opportunity to taste a few novelty wines that have not yet come to the market, so we have a kind of exclusive chance to taste wines that will carry special new labels in the future. Of course, Tamjanika and Prokupac remain in focus as the principal varieties of Župa, but this time with an addition of untypical international grape varieties such as Petit Verdot.
Experiment Tamjanika 2021 - Čokot - We start the tasting with Experiment Tamjanika from the vintage 2021. Radovan comments that 2021 was an excellent year for Tamjanika, whilst it turned out rather average for Prokupac. Tamjanika full of freshness, acidity 7.1g/l, alcohol 12.5%. Already now, we see the signs that it will make a great companion for the upcoming hot summer days. Indeed, thanks to the altitude, wines from Čokot Winery show distinct freshness and crisp acidity that provide exceptional pleasantness. On the nose, varietal typical muscat tones, floral-fruity character with discreet herbal hints that complement the impression of freshness. Medium body, harmonious, rounded, modern style Tamjanika. 89-90/100
Tamjanika Radovan 100% 2021 - Čokot - Unfinished wine, barrel sample. Fermentation was done in a combination of 225l/500l Serbian oak barrels (7th filling). After fermentation, the wine remained on the lees and racking was done once a week. Wild yeasts, unfiltered. Full body, complex, creamy texture. Layered, lush aromas of white peach, citrus, red grapefruit, Muscat tones, still a bit untamed. However, this cannot hide the fact that we're having an exceptional wine in the glass.
Tamjanika Macerated 2019 - Čokot - Then comes a really big surprise. Radovan Đorđević decided to try his hand at the field of long-macerated Tamjanika. Anyhow, currently in Župa, there is a visible trend among local winemakers to explore all facets of Tamjanika and to divert from dry, aromatic fresh wines to more serious gastronomic wines aged in wood, amphorae, with long maceration, etc.
After harvesting, the berries are crushed. 150 days of maceration, wild yeasts. Fermentation in a 500l barrel. The wine has matured in the bottle for a year. Since it is an experimental sample, a total of 400 bottles were produced.
Precise, clean nose. Aromas of yellow fruit, chamomile, propolis, peach, yellow apple, spicy tones, ginger, basil. In the mouth, medium body, elegant impression, structure somewhat simpler than I would have expected. Excellent acidity. 87/100
Experiment Prokupac 2016 - Čokot - Brick red shades around the rim indicate that we have mature Prokupac in the glass. A wine that shows us how unpredictable and at the same time magnificent the Prokupac variety is. At the time of harvest, Prokupac from one plot was not ripe sufficiently, contained a lot of pyrazine. Although the harvest time was already approaching November, it did not seem that the quality of grapes would improve. For that reason, all the grapes were picked, put in a barrel... and remained forgotten in the corner of the cellar. When relocating the cellar to the new winery building, Radovan also discovered that barrel...To his great surprise, the wine experienced a real transformation. The wine is still in the barrel, and no sulphites have been added over the last four years. On the nose, rich, complex, with plentiful aromas of vanilla, coconut, dried fruit, dried cranberry, dried cherries, prunes, aromas reminiscent of whiskey... On the palate, the character of Prokupac is still preserved. The pyrazine tones have completely disappeared in the course of aging, the wine softened and became more rounded. Excellent acidity preserve freshness. The impression on the palate is reminiscent of good aged Sangiovese, and yet Prokupac is still there, stubbornly refusing to lose its character with aging. 90/100
Prokupac + Petit Verdot 2019 - Čokot - Wine from grapevines planted in 2016. Prokupac and Petit Verdot varieties were co-planted in the vineyard in a ratio of 90:10. This ratio is maintained in the wine itself (90% Prokupac, 10% Petit Verdot). The wine aged for 15 months in used oak barrels and 9 months in the bottle.
Petit Verdot in this blend was tamed by Prokupac. On the nose, in addition to varietal aromas of Prokupac such as sour cherry, plum, red fruit, blackberry and raspberry, hints of smoke, bacon, and violet tones also came to the fore. Those smoky tones give a certain rustic feel to the wine. Mature, rich, soft tannins. On the palate, however, Prokupac prevails with hints of sour cherry, red fruit, fresh tobacco, and cranberry. Freshness in the finish. 91/100
Tomislav Ivanović
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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