As soon as the curtains went down to another International Prokupac Day, I would like to reflect on this year's Prokupac Salon, which was held on October 14th, 2018 in the City Garden restaurant in the very heart of downtown Belgrade. Once again this year, the International Prokupac Day sent out a positive image of Serbia across the globe and confirmed the status of Prokupac among wine lovers.

Prokupac Salon has already become the focal point for all major Serbian wineries that produce Prokupac, so in one place all exhibited wines can be tasted in order to assess style, vintages and winemakers' philosophy.

Prokupac offers something for everyone. Do you prefer monovarietal Prokupac or blended with another grape variety? Do you prefer Pinot Noir-like elegant style or more robust style with harder tannins? Do you prefer Prokupac aged in stainless-steel tanks or Prokupac aged in oak? The size of oak barrels affects the extent to which Prokupac will impart oaked character: from a barrique to a large barrel of 2,000 liters. One shouldn't neglect rosé wines and Prokupac blanc de blanc. The choice is yours. Undoubtedly, Prokupac Salon has shown that some fine samples of Prokupac can be found among all these categories.

Most of the visitors left this year's Prokupac Salon with a smile of satisfaction on their face. Prokupac wines from the vintage 2017 have already appeared on the market, and judging from available samples, a promising vintage for Prokupac wines is looming ahead. Prokupac from 2017 will probably stand side by side with Prokupac from 2011. It would be hard to find a winemaker during the Prokupac Salon who wasn't satisfied with 2017 Prokupac. So, let this be an important tip when picking wines in a wine shop.

The second conclusion is that wood is slowly but surely losing the battle with Prokupac. Wines exhibited this year show less wood, even among those wineries that previously pushed for recognizable style featuring accentuated impact of oak in their wines. Winemakers have definitely began to understand Prokupac and search for the right balance of wood and fruit. Antić Winery from Orahovac has even decided to present Prokupac aged in stainless steel tank, i.e. pure expression of fruit.

 Jelić Winery from Valjevo (West Serbia) participated for the first time at Prokupac Salon. Kameničanka (Prokupac) 2012 - one of those wines that was rumoured as a not-to-be-missed wine. In addition to complexity and fine patina gained by long ageing, majority of visitors emphasized minerality as its quality. Exclusively, Kameničanka from vintage 2013 was also presented. Definitely, a wine that shows richer aromatic profile. However, tannins are still harsh, they coat the palate, definitely need more time to mature. Such tannins and excellent acidity guarantee longevity, so you will not make a mistake if you put a bottle in your wine cellar and wait ...

If we talk about aged Prokupac, Budimir Winery presented Prokupac Boje Lila from vintage 2011. Prokupac Boje Lila 2009 is one of my favorite Serbian wines, so I have no fear that vintage 2011 will also stand up to such reputation.

The quality of Prokupac from Temet Winery (Jagodina) labelled Tri Morave Red has fluctuated over the past years, particularly in terms of restraining the tannin structure of Prokupac... Their wine from the vintage 2016 brings them back in the game on the well-outlined market of Prokupac wines. And not only in Serbia. Tri Morave Red found its market beyond the borders of Serbia, in Belgium, the Netherlands, etc...

Radovan Đorđević has raised the ladder high and now there's no return. Radovan 100% from Čokot Winery (Župa) remains one of the best wines exhibited at this year's Salon. And the big surprise was the barrel sample of a new blend (80% Prokupac, 20% Petit Verdot).

Prokupac 2016 from Ivanović Winery... It seems to me that this wine will surpass the legendary Ivanović Prokupac 2011... So much softness, warmth, fruitiness in wine that leaves nobody indifferent. A good tip is to buy some bottles and keep them for the next 10 years because the wine will evolve and improve with age... if you can be patient enough. (And an anecdote: While I was visiting the vineyards of Župa a few weeks ago, I made a surprise visit to vineyards on Varina hill owned by Ivanović family. While I photographed the vineyard, it cam to my mind that somebody could shoot me thinking that I was about to steal grapes. However, during Prokupac Salon, I learned that the job of a wine writer is not so dangerous, since the Ivanovićs are one of just a few families in Župa who don't possess a hunting rifle. Winemakers are obviously peaceful folks).

Milosavljević Winery has proven with its Villa Vina Prokupac that consumers appreciate honest approach in the vineyard and wine cellar as well as ecological vineyard management.

New image of Župa or the young generation of local winemakers... Yotta, Živković, Milan's Cellar and for the first time, Vujić Winery... The young generation which quickly joined the ranks of top-notch producers of Prokupac. Definitely, Yotta and Živković were a great discovery of last year's Prokupac Salon, which couldn't stay unnoticed since they were also listed among top 10 Prokupac wines on the website of Jancis Robinson. Yotta presented their Prokupac from vintage 2016 at this year's Prokupac Salon. Excellent tannins, acidity that gives impression of freshness in combination with abundant flavors of red fruit, cherries. On the other hand, Prokupac from Živković Winery gained additional flavor complexity. The palate still shows predominant fruitiness, but the wine has matured and developed rich spicy tones that will simply leave you breathless. It is exactly the feature for which Prokupac from Virtus Winery (Mlava region) is highly reputed.

Milan's Cellar remains the only producer in Serbia that produces white wine from Prokupac. Such a wine is still a mistery, and last year no one could assess whether this wine would have any ageing potential. This year, the wine gives quite a different impression. It matured, got a soft buttery impression. Citrus fruit and red orange aromas have subsided, whilst aromas of yellow stone fruit came to the fore: peach, yellow apple... No sign of oxidation... This wine is an indication how much more we need to explore all facets of Prokupac.

Vujić Winery from Župa had their debut at Prokupac Salon. Gmitar, young Prokupac from vintage 2017, sourced from a 110-year-old vineyard. The winery owner is determined to produce natural wines with as little intervention as possible. The segment in which Kosta Botunjac has already paved the path to follow. Sveti Gral (The Holy Grail) from vintage 2016, attracted numerous wine lovers to Botunjac stand. It's encouraging that young winemakers bring new energy and lots of enthusiasm.

Grabak Winery from Vrnjacka Banja has also made a qualitative leap if we compare Prokupac from 2016 and 2017. So, it's just another example which illustrates the quality of grapes in 2017.

Toplica region was duly represented. Doja Winery and Toplički Vinogradi have presented their flagship Prokupac wines, international style featuring aromas obtained by oak ageing, sweet spice, cacao, vanilla.

And for everyone who appreciates Prokupac for its elegance, similar to Pinot Noir wine, the favourites are Baš Prokupac from Janko Cellar or Zmajeviti from Despotika Winery.

Photo: N. Kostić

(18th October, 2018)

   

BACK TO CATEGORY