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News / 09/26/2020 / 1742
Prokupac Day is approaching... The wine scene of Serbia always stirs with excitement in the course of October, because we have been celebrating 14th October as the International Prokupac Day for 5 years. Apparently, Prokupac expansion has been progressing like an avalanche. More and more new wineries and young winemakers are choosing Prokupac when planting vineyards, so this grape variety expands literally in all vinegrowing regions of Serbia.
We are already accustomed to the elegance of Prokupac, its delicate spicy notes and juicy fruitiness, a distinct character that shows also in blends. We have learned that over time Prokupac wines get a noble patina, they soften and turn into a great wine that we are proud of.
Winemakers from Serbia are still exploring potential of Prokupac and challenge its versatility. This month, I've had an opportunity to taste two Prokupac wines that originate from two different regions of Serbia (one is in the north, on the border with Hungary, whilst the other is from the south, the region of Župa at the foot of Mt. Kopaonik and Mt. Jastrebac). Winemakers with an authentic expression, winemakers who are not afraid to step out of their comfort zone. As a result, we got two stylistically different Prokupac wines that will surely challenge your understanding of Prokupac.
PKC-500 2019 - Maurer Winery
Oskar Maurer, the winemaker who never ceases to surprise us with his authentic wines and innovative approach to winemaking, presented in the Organski Podrum shop (address: Dobračina 59, Belgrade) for the first time on the market his wine from the northernmost vineyard of Prokupac located in the village of Bački Vinogradi. The wine has a tentative title PKC- 500, but it will soon get its official label.
The vineyard is 12 years old. The grapes were harvested on November 1st. Dehydrated and shrivelled grapes included also some 15-20% botrytized berries. Maceration for 10 days. Oscar Maurer wants to emphasize wine's fruitiness and intense freshness of Prokupac. Using natural gravity flow, he filled two 225-liter barrels and then left the wine to mature for 9 months. Sulphur was added in a very small dose just before bottling. The wine hasn't been fined or filtered.
He obtained an authentic Prokupac, with aromatic profile that shows typicity of young Prokupac wines. Surprisingly harmonious tannins, rounded, integrated with accentuated fruitiness bursting with concentrated overripe cherries, black berries, floral tones, ginger, spicy finish. Stylistically different, but still essentially a Prokupac wines.
Bonsai Prokupac 2016 - Yotta
Yotta Winery from Župa has caused local wine afficionados to raise their eyebrows when their wine first appeared on the market, whilst their basic Prokupac immediately reached the Top 10 list of Serbian Prokupac wines on the Jancis Robinson's website.
But this time, something completely different is hiding under the label of Yotta's Bonsai Prokupac.
After the regular harvest, the grapes were placed on wood racks with wire net at the bottom and stored in a ventilated place, without moisture, where the grapes were left to dry until mid-January. The dehydrated, shrivelled berries were then processed. Maceration lasted for about 25 days. Fermentation with the use of selected yeasts. This is followed by aging for 2.5 years in used Serbian oak barriques. Finally, stabilization for 6 months in stainless steel tank and bottling. Alcohol level 15%, acidity 5.7 g/l. Total production: only 600 bottles.
This Prokupac shows concentration and full body, which is partly due to some residual sugar that lingers on the palate. A full-bodied, firm mouthfeel, and yet mature harmonious tannins. A potent wine that will satisfy those who prefer full-bodied concentrated Mediterranean wines. However, the aromatic profile that goes more towards jammy notes and dried fruit (dried cherries, cranberries, raspberries) with a hint of basil, hay and mint cannot hide Prokupac in the glass. Simply put, Prokupac has so much character that cannot be masked easily.
Winemakers Oskar and Đorđe have shown us a new interpretation of Prokupac and indicated that there is still a lot of work ahead of us. Prokupac as a variety has not yet shown all its faces.
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Similar to numerous world-famous grape varieties that already have their day celebrated in the wine world, an initiative was launched in Serbia in 2016 to celebrate "Prokupac Day" on October 14th. Prokupac, as the flagship autochthonous grape variety of Serbia, thus became the first grape variety from the region of Central and Eastern Europe that got its internationally recognized grape day. The goal of the event is to promote importance of autochthonous grape varieties of Serbia, to support efforts of local wineries in preserving Serbia's wine identity and to increase customer awareness about wines from Serbia. Prokupac Day will also increase recognition of Serbia as a wine country globally.
Tomislav Ivanović
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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