I was delighted with the opportunity to visit the winery owned by Oszkar Maurer. The road leads to the very north of Serbia, a village called Hajdukovo in the vicinity of Hungarian border. We traverse a peaceful Vojvodina-style village intersected by spacious wide streets, then cross the railway lines and we reach a beautiful house on the edge of the village where Oskar lives with his family and keeps his wines in the cellar. Maurer Winery owns 15 hectares of vineyards classified into two wine regions. 60% of vineyards are located on Fruška Gora (Srem wine region), whilst the other 40% are found in Subotica wine region. Oskar is well-reputed for his oldest vineyard of Kadarka in the world (planted in 1880).

Kevedinka (Kövidinka) 2016 - Grapes for this wine originate from a 92-year-old vineyard. Yield 500g per vine. No machines in the vineyard, only human and horse labour combined. Concerning soil profile, top layer is composed of sand. The layer at 30-60cm depth is made of limestone (20% concentration) and clay underneath (which helps retain moisture required for grapevine growth through sand layer). Ungrafted old vineyard since there is no risk of phylloxera on sandy soil.  Expressive dry wine. The nose is dominated by aromas of white flowers, elderberry, yellow apple, peach, honey. Flavours of citrus fruit, grapefruit, pineapple, yellow apple prevail. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, creamy, delicious. Long, juicy finish with distinct pear trace. Vibrant acidity contributes to wine's freshness.

Furmint 2016 - The vineyard of Furmint was planted in 2010 on Fruška Gora, close to the border between Serbia and Croatia. The nose shows concentrated fruit, power and intensity, accompanied with funky traces. The wine is full-bodied, an impressive wine altogether. Whirlwind of flavours on the palate ranging from yellow apple, apricot, citrus fruit, grapefruit to white flowers.

Medenac Beli (Mézes Fehér ) 2016 - A 9-year-old vineyard in the vicinity of Sremski Karlovci. This variety is early-ripening (in August), but the harvest was done in October. 20% of grapes affected by botrytis. This can be tasted in wine. As if you were drinking dry szamorodni, just void of those specific sherry-like aromas. The palate is dominated by flavours of linden tea, herbal trace, hay, dried fruit, walnut, bitter almond in the finish. Very complex and unconventional wine.

Fodor Rizling 2015 (Italian Riesling) - Fodor plot is located in Bački Vinogradi. The 50-year-old goblet-trained vineyard was Oskar's grand-grandmother's dowry. Yield 300g per vine. Golden yellow wine in the glass. 16 days' skin contact. The wine (entire harvest) matured in a barrel (735 litres' volume). This barrel is 66 years old (inherited from Oskar's grand-grandfather). The 2015 harvest started on 3rd November. 1/4 of grapes were dried, well affected by botrytis. The harvest in this vineyard typically  starts in November. This wine shows potential and splendor of Italian Riesling also known as Grašac.

Bakator Orange 2015 - Bakator vineyard is located on Fruška Gora. Oskar Maurer is the only producer in Serbia who makes wine from this variety. 10 days' maceration.  Golden yellow wine in the glass. Mature nose, aromas of propolis, linden tea, pear, yellow apple, basil. Full-bodied wine, with sharp tannic grip. Excellent acidity contributes to wine's vibrancy. Paired with acidity, they guarantee longevity to this wine. Elegant quince trail in the finish.

Sremska Zelenika 2015 - The vineyard of Sremska Zelenika is located on Fruška Gora, the plot called Velika Kristuševina. This variety was named after its feature that even when ripe, the berry colour remains green and doesn't turn yellow. In 19th century, Sremska Zelenika and Kadarka were the most common grape varieties on Fruška Gora. Oskar Maurer considers Sremska Zelenika one of the best varieties with potential to produce diverse styles of wine. Somewhat delayed harvest (mid/end September), 8 days skin contact, 50 mg/l sulphur (maximum permitted quantity for organic wine production is 120 mg/l). Light golden yellow colour. Elegant wine. The nose reveals aromas of yellow apple, green apple. Extractive wine on the palate, flavours of quince, peach, yellow apple. Impressive long finish.

Tamjanika 2015 - Tamjanika vineyard is located at Remetica plot near Sremski Karlovci. Yield 300g per vine. If you are a fan of Tamjanika's traditional style (dry wine, Župa), this is a great opportunity to taste completely different rendition of Tamjanika. Wine produced in accordance with organic production principles. No insecticides or artificial fertilizers, no bentonite or potassium metabisulfite. Although this wine features fuller body and more extract than conventional Tamjanika, yet I found this wine least impressive. It shows unclean aromas on the nose. As a consumer, I would have concerns about further evolution of this wine taking into account the puritan approach in winemaking. However, natural wines are a living entity which continues to develop and evolve. Sometimes, for the better and sometimes for the worse.

Rheinriesling 2015 - Grapes for this wine originate from a plot called Karaš on Fruška Gora. Historically, plots Karaš and Matej are well-known as excellent vinegrowing area of Fruška Gora. Currently, only Maurer Winery and Dulka Winery possess vineyards on Karaš. 10 days' maceration. Golden yellow wine, with lots of character. On the nose, dominant aromas of linden tea, basil, mint, pear, quince. Aromas on the nose continuously evolve and contribute to this wine's exciting appeal. In the mouth, the wine is savoury, pleasant acidity stimulates salivation. The wine sample is still not bottled. It should be released on the market next year.

Maurer Corvina White 2013 - (varietal composition: Sremska Zelenika, Bakator, Rheinriesling, Medenac, Tamjanika) Wine with excellent aging potential. Persistant acidity guarantees longevity. Lasting, intense mouthfeel dominated by fresh fruit, citrus, green apple, orange. Elegant nose, refined with prevailing aromas of white flowers, propolis, honey, peach, yellow apple and hints of chemical notes.

Vino Regnum 2010 - (varietal composition: Rheinriesling, Italian Riesling, Furmint, Gewürztraminer) Written record about Vino Regnum orginate from the time of Janko Sibinjanin (Hunyadi János). In the past, it was made exclusively from Furmint originating from Fruška Gora. Oskar Maurer has found an ideal ratio of varieties which constitute this blend. Wine aged for 6.5 years in a barrel. Opulent, soft impression. Rich aromatic profile: beside nutty and walnut aromas, still plentiful fruity aromas of quince, ripe pear, yellow apple. Wine with patina aged in used barrels.

Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot 2013 - Aromas of red forest berries, ripe raspberry, forest floor with hints of notes originating from barrel aging. The palate is dominated by flavours of sour cherry, red currants, blackberry accompanied with hints of dried tomato and olives. Ripe tannins, long exciting finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 - Grapes originate from Karaš plot on Fruška Gora. Oskar sold that vineyard, but continued purchasing grapes and making wines in cooperation with the new owner. This year, all wine produced from those grapes will be exported to Sweden. This is Oskar's experimental field.  He obtains 670 litres of wine from 1 hectare of vineyards. The vineyard is not sprayed, fully organic production - no copper, no sulphur. No filtration, no bentonite, sulphites 40 mg/l. Wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon, however 80% of grapes were affected by botrytis. This is easily detected by the wine's colour. Given that botrytis spoils the skin, the wine's colour seems as if it were 7-8 years old. You will certainly be surprised by such expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of cranberry, overripe sour cherry, dried tomato. Medium-bodied wine. High alcohol disturbs the overall balance. While I am tasting this wine, I hear Oskar Maurer's echoing words that he doesn't want to be a part of cliché what Cabernet Sauvignon should look like. Simply, every harvest is different and tells a different story, so every year he makes a different wine, unlike any other.

Natural wines represent an entity which reflects terroir, variety, harvest and humans who make wine (vinegrower and winemaker) without any mechanical or chemical intervention aimed at altering, modifying or abolishing these factors. Wines made by Oskar Maurer have passed a long journey. They earn their reputation first outside Serbia's borders and then started winning their place in Serbia. The moment has come for young winemakers to grasp practices of natural winemaking. Fruška Gora is definitely coming to the fore with this regard, so natural wines cannot be neglected if we speak about the present and future of Fruška Gora and Serbia.

       

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