Dalmatia Wine Expo 2015 in Split (Croatia) has become a must-visit on the map of wine events in the Balkans. During the two-day festival, the focus  is on wines and wineries of Dalmatia. The highlight of the festival and attraction for numerous wine experts, journalists and restaurant owners is a horizontal tasting of Plavac Mali available on the market.

This year, on April 24th, a conference room in Radisson Blue Hotel in Split (Dalmatia) was too small to accommodate all interested winelovers who wanted to witness assessment of the quality, style and potential  of top Plavac Mali wines from vintage 2012. The workshop was run by Saša Špiranec.

In Dalmatia, the year 2012 was quite challenging in the vineyards, with long periods of drought and high temperatures. Winemakers usually do not like extreme years because then all the problems need to be resolved in the cellar. Anyhow, such year announces already ripeness, concentrated wine, high alcohols and difficulties when it comes to phenolic ripeness.



1. Plavac Mali Barrique 2012 - Vuina winery - The vineyards are more than 30 years old, located on the plots of Kaštel, Trogir, so it means coastal, continental part of Dalmatia. Vuina Winery coped with dry year with ease because the vineyards are equipped with an irrigation system and vines did not suffer stress. Fruity aromas of dark cherry, plum dominate the nose, with hints of earthy tones, leather and aromas that come from the barrel. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied, dense, chewy, concentrated and leaves a long trail of dried plums.

2. Bosso 2012 - Senjković winery - Vineyards on the southern plots of Brač island. What impressed me most in this wine is its freshness and beautiful acidity (which usually doesn't come as the typical feature of Plavac Mali). The nose is very concentrated, distinctive Plavac with plentyful notes of vanilla and sweet spices. Rounded mouthfeel, chewy, with distinct character, aromas of dark cherry and red forest berries ... Saša Špiranec defined it well: "fruity to extremes, sturdy when it comes to tannins."

3. Plavac Mali Majstor 2012 - Stina - Already on the nose, you can recognize that it is Plavac Mali in the glass - complex aromas of dried fruit, fig, carob, tobacco leaf. The mouth is dominated by high-extract and impressions of ripe fruit, but without any overripeness. Mature tannins transport the wine towards long, intense finish. Alcohol is high, but it does not spoil the overall impression.

4. Ivan Dolac 2012 - Vujnović winery - Ugh! Already the nose reveals that we have come to the "traditionalist" ... Winery from Hvar island, vineyards with southern exposure. Overripe fruit is simply bursting out of the glass, particularly aromas of plums, prunes, with notes of anchovies, leather and ... brett. Aromas of prunes and dried cherries prevail on the palate.

5. Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru 2012 - Zlatan Otok - A few years ago, after Dalmacija Wine Expo in Makarska, I had an opportunity to visit Zlatan Otok Winery in Hvar. I remember back then that I was incredibly happy to see the place where wines which are highly regarded in Belgrade as the symbol of Hvar, are made. And just as I expected, this wine is the most concentrated so far. A genuine wine bomb in the mouth. The first impression is ripeness, high-extract, seriousness. The aromas are nicely intertwined: plums, figs, tobacco leaf ... Tannins skillfully tamed.

6. Plavac Mali 2012 - Rizman Winery - The new face of Plavac Mali. Grapes from vineyards of Komarna. The nose is dominated by dark cherry with spicy notes, vanilla. However, in the mouth, the wine seems quite different from wines that we have tasted  so far... The main impression is amazing freshness and liveliness, which is accompanied with certain rigor (both in terms of the structure and in terms of tannic composition). And the best part is that wine, alongside its characteristic freshness, hasn't lost anything from its complexity and extracts. All this is wonderfully woven together, and works a wonder. I have an impression that Komarna has given new qualities to Plavac Mali, and I hope that the future of Plavac Mali from Dalmatia will look like this.

7. Plavac Mali Škrapa 2012 - Marlais Winery - another wine from a young winery located in Pelješac. This wine is characterized by distinct tannins that simply coat the mouth. And then, aromas of dark cherries, leather, tobacco lead emerge through the tannin layers. All in all, the wine leaves a more pleasant impression in the mouth than on the nose ... The nose shows animal notes, slightly funky ...

8. Dingač 2012 - Saints Hills - The first impression when tasting this wine is that it is pure essence of Plavac Mali in a glass. Concentrated, extractive, intense ... In the mouth, it leaves an impression as if I were eating ripe raisins of Plavac Mali ... Pure fruit ... The wine is full-bodied, long finish ... Fascinating how the winemaker managed to retain high extract while avoiding overripeness ...

9. Plavac Mali 2012 - Korta Katarina- grapes come from positions of Dingač and Postup. Subdued fruitiness and elegance ... Intense lingering trace of dark cherry compote remains in the mouth, with hints of carob, dried figs. Acidity gives liveliness to high extracts and full body, thus making wine like a piece of haut couture collection made by a famous fashion designer: tailored with precision, made of quality materials, stylishly rounded and makes you feel wonderful.

10. Dingač 2012 - Benmosche - This wine demonstrates all difficulties that the year 2012 brought. In the glass, constantly alternating effects of ripe and unripe: not very pleasant combination of insufficient phenolic ripeness  and overripe fruit. Tannins coarse, and even the pleasant spicy notes of mint, vanilla, herbs, chocolate do not show clear definition.

11. Dingač 2012 - Goranko Poljanić - And finally, the traditional rendering of Dingač. Overripe fruit, concentrated, a bit heavy notes of dried fruit, especially prunes and dried figs, with wonderful sweetness in the finish and a touch of licorice. The wine gives warm mouthfel.

Considering that last year everyone talked about the effects of global warming and climate change, winemakers need to be prepared for years similar to 2012 with lots of dry, scorching hot days. That is why, in my opinion, the best potential among presented wines to cope with extreme climatic conditions showed wines from Komarna. I am confident that better and better wines will keep emerging from this region in the coming years ... And all my heart is rooting for winemakers of Komarna.

In addition to Plavac Mali tasting, another event that stirred a lot of attention among festival audience and that required a lot of efforts to obtain at least one free place at the workshop was the presentation of contemporary Serbian wine scene, facilitated by Igor Luković, editor of wine magazine Vino&Fino.



 

The following Serbian wines were presented at the tasting:

-Kovačević Brut 2009 – Kovačević Winery

-Tri Morave white 2013 – Temet Winery

-Grašac 2013 – Molovin Winery

-Pinot Blanc 2013 – Zvonko Bogdan Winery

-Vrtlog 2013 – Janko's Cellar

-Babaroga 2013 – Bjelica Winery

-Prokupac Ivanović 2013 – Ivanović Winery

-Sub Rosa 2008 – Budimir Winery

-Probus 2012 – Milanović Winery

-Kremen 2013 – Matalj Winery



 

A general comment and conclusion of present audience was that Croatian winelovers are insufficiently familiar with progress made in recent years by Serbian wineries, and that there is definitely interest and curiosity to explore what is in the vineyards on the east side of the border. Mental and political barriers are bound to break down, and this is proven by the fact that wines from Zvonko Bogdan Winery and  Tonković Winery can now be found on the Croatian market, simply because the true wine lovers appreciate quality no matter where it comes from.

 

 

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