Modern wine history of Serbia is still waiting to be told. Occasions when we taste aged archive wines are still rare, and so are the vertical tastings which help us understand better the potential of each vine-growing region. Very often private wine cellars owned by local wine enthusiasts hide real little gems ... wines from the early beginnings of modern Serbian wine story which even wineries no longer stock up in their wine cellars, or wines from wineries which no longer exist as they failed to overcome difficulties of the underdeveloped market in the period when wine culture in Serbia was still in its infancy.

And so, out of the blue, I got invited to explore the secrets of Serbian Riesling. The wines were stored in a private wine cellar, but a mere look at the labels invokes nostalgia and curiosity. A good reason to return to Belgrade after a trip to Veliko Gradište, where the competition for the best Danube fish stew was held. A rare opportunity indeed.

The tasting was held in the cosy premises of wine shop Absolut Wine in Vračar (Mačvanska 15).

Rheinriesling 2008 - Tanića Pimnice - This winery has come in the spotlight primarily owing to Cabernet Sauvignon from Negotin and the famous vineyard in the village of Tamnič which is considered as one of the best micro-locations for Cabernet Sauvignon in Negotinska Krajina. As far as Riesling is concerned, it's a wine that the owner kept for himself and friends. So, the wine that did not go to regular sale channels. In the glass, unctuous, moving slowly. On the nose, hints of oxidation, nutty notes, yellow apples, dried fruit. However, on the palate, the wine still retains freshness so the oxidative character of the wine hasn't prevailed. Beside aromas of yellow apples, nuts, dried figs, the wine also reveals delicate notes of citrus and grapefruit, which contribute to wine's impression of freshness. Medium-bodied wine, medium acidity.

Rheinriesling 2007 - Vinovita - This wine is a nice contribution to the history of Serbian wine. Vinovita Winery no longer exists under that name. It was founded in 2003 by Viktor Panajotović. A few years ago, the winery changed its name to Panajotović Cellar and operates in Belgrade nowadays. The cellar is located in the deep underground passages of Senjak and it is managed by Victor's son Vladimir. The grapes for this wine originate from Smederevo, the Obrenović family vineyards. The nose reveals wine without faults, plentiful petrol notes complemented by delicate hints of spice, mint, basil. Pleasant nutty trail in the finish. The wine has the same flavour profile in the mouth, complemented by notes of citrus. Oily, moving slowly in the glass ... A long refreshing finish.  A 9-year-old wine which still hasn't had the final say. A very pleasant surprise tonight.

Rheinriesling 2007 - Dajić Cellar - Another Riesling from Negotin. Golden yellow color, a bit hazy. On the nose, petroleum notes, somewhat more discreet than in the previous wine, are struggling for primacy with oxidative notes. In the mouth, the wine is also on the verge of oxidation... even slight petillant sensation in the mouth (the presence of CO2)?!? Hm, most likely secondary fermentation in the bottle, which is also indicated by haziness...

Rheinriesling 2006 - Vitis Vino Jelenković - Another winery from Negotin which now represents Serbian wine history. The winery no longer exists. The wine was made from grapes originating from Rajac vineyards. Unfortunately, the wine didn't survive the test of time. Color resembling cognac. Oxidized wine.

Rheinriesling 2006 - Jović Winery - (Potrkanje, Knjaževac) Very poor quality of cork closure. The result: the wine was corked, which disappointed us a lot. And a lesson for winemakers to pay attention when choosing the right cork closure...

Rheinriesling 2005 - Živković Winery (Kličevac, Mlava region) - This wine could be deservingly called "the wine with patina". Despite oxidative notes, the wine still shows a lot of character. The nose is dominated by notes of apple, nuts, dried fruit ... However, in the mouth the wine is still alive. Dried fruit, dried figs, dried apricots, raisins, nuts, citrus leave a pleasant rounded impression in the mouth. Wine past its best, but still enjoyable.

Tamuz Riesling 2005 - Jelić Winery (Valjevo) - On the nose, the wine is past its best, oxidative notes: apple, nuts. However, in the mouth, there follows a completely different profile of the wine: no nutty notes, lots of vivacious freshness. The palate is dominated by flavours of quince and yellow apples. Wine is still alive, as if it were 3 years old, although it is actually 11 years old. A long pleasant finish. Also, it is not a typical Riesling. The wine lacks developed petroleum notes. It's a wine with captivating individuality. A wine that intrigues by the contrast between its impressions on the nose and on the palate.

Then another plunge into history of Serbian wines. Another winery that no longer exists. World of Wine Winery was established in 2006 by Živojin Đorđević who ended his winemaking career ingloriously owing to disproportionate investments that led to liquidity problems and eventual bankruptcy.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - World of Wine - grapes for this wine originate from Negotin, so this is an excellent opportunity to assess qualities of 10-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon from Negotin. Wine was decanted prior to serving. The wine opens slowly. Definitely, a wine at its peak. The nose is complex, exciting, aromas ranging from cedar, tobacco, forest floor, mushrooms to vanilla, leather. Soft tannins and a pleasant velvety feel in the mouth. Elegant and multilayered in the finish. The tannins are still present, but they are so silky and fully incorporated into the overall character of the wine. Wow!

And finally, it makes sense to close this tasting with a view to the future. For me, this was the first opportunity to taste Merlot from the young winery Izba Jovanović located in the vicinity of Niš (South Serbia).

Merlot 2014 - Izba Jovanović- young winery, proverbially difficult year 2014 for red wines and a fact that I have been waiting for quite some time for appearance of a Serbian Merlot that will impress me. Then follows a pleasant surprise. Ripe grapes, without any hints of unripe, green tones. Wine full of extract, warm impression. Some oak aging nicely complements fruity character of Merlot. Plenty of fruit flavors: plum, currant, blueberry ,accompanying spicy notes and oak. Medium-bodied wine. The tannins are ripe, pleasant. I hope that in the coming years, Izba Jovanović will venture to explore potential of Merlot from Niš by vinification as a white wine. This is still something that has not been done in Serbia and certainly can gain a lot of fans thanks to its fruity aromas so characteristic of white wines made from Merlot in Ticino in Switzerland and northern Italy. Let it be their homework for the future, and a good way to supplement their portfolio with white wine.

 

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