Throughout history, royal families have been related to viticulture and winemaking in a special way. As a reminder, one of the main attractions at the historical site Hradčany in Prague is Wenceslas Vineyard or  "the royal Vineyard", the oldest vineyard in Czech Republic. The Danish royal family owns vineyards and a winery in the southwest of France, in Cahors. The British royal family planted vineyards on 3 ha estate in Windsor in 2011 with a desire to start sparkling wine production in a few years. The Prince of Liechtenstein has a Royal Winery and vineyards in Vaduz. The noble grapes were always appreciated by the aristocracy.

Given the turbulent history of Serbia which witnessed shift of two ruling dynasties - the Karadjordjević and the Obrenović, it is not surprising that the quest for royal vineyards in Serbia nowadays will take you to two different locations. If we talk about the Karadjordjević dynasty, then the road will unfailingly lead to Oplenac (Šumadija wine-growing region) where the  Royal Winery (Kraljevska Vinarija) still produces wine under the administration of the King Peter the First Foundation. And if we're looking for the Obrenović dynasty, then the road will take us to Smederevo (Belgrade wine-growing region ). Only this year, Obrenović Mansion also known as Golden Hill Mansion in the vicinity of Smederevo has opened its doors to the general public, so that ordinary mortals ( not only the top-ranked government officials of Serbia and their guests statesmen from abroad)  can visit the estate which consists of vineyards and a summer palace.

Under the auspices of Maja Gojković, the President of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia and in association with Color Press Group, members of the diplomatic corps and Serbian wine media got an opportunity to visit the estate owned by the Republic of Serbia and get more familiar with wines of Smederevo region.

Maja Gojković, the President of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia
© Color Press Group (R.Čoban) In 1829, Prince Miloš Obrenović purchased from a Turkish landowner a vineyard with an orchard, meadow and a house at the plot called Plavinac near Smederevo. Written records mention that in 1836, Prince Miloš sent to Jovanče 500 grapevines to expand the vineyard around the house on Plavinac estate. Shortly afterwards, the wine cellar and summer residence were built on the estate, so members of the Obrenović dynasty started frequent visits to Smederevo and spent more time on their estate in Plavinac. The mansion was erected in 1865 when Prince Mihailo built single-storey summer house. Later,  this summer house underwent renovation to resemble the style of Swiss villas, based on Queen Natalia's wish. The vineyards and wine cellar played an important role in the life of the family Obrenović.

 

After the assassination of King Aleksandar and Queen Draga, Queen Natalija donated the villa with 37 hectares of the estate (including 17 hectares vineyard and 10 hectares of forest) to the Orešković family. The park also contains the first cricket pitch built in Serbia as well as a tennis court. Central position on the estate is occupied by "the farmhouse" which also represents the wine cellar.

The Obrenović's Wine Cellar After World War II, the Obrenović's Mansion was nationalized and used until recently exclusively for the state protocol. Simultaneously with the opening of the estate to the general public and tourists, the Government of the Republic of Serbia has launched a tender for the sale of bulk wine and spirits from the Golden Hill estate, which revealed what is stored in the Obrenović Mansion's wine cellar in Smederevo. The wines offered at auction include 3200 liters of Smederevka from harvest 2013, then 4100 liters of "Golden Hill "blend from harvest 2012 and 1000 liters of Muscat Hamburg from harvest 2013. This will help you identify varietal composition of vineyards that surround  the Obrenović Mansion in Smederevo. After a tour of the Mansion, we had an opportunity to taste wines from Smederevo region. In addition to leading wineries from Smederevo (Janko Cellar and Jeremić Winery), we also tasted wines from small family cellars located in the villages of Vodanj and Dobri Dol. All these wineries cannot boast with expensive equipment and state-of-the-art technologies, but they have something that is priceless and might evolve into a recognizable local brand - preserved 25-35 year old vineyards. With great interest I listened to the story of the changing fashion and that winemakers were forced 10-15 years ago to plant international varieties instead of Smederevka in the vineyards because of market demand, but now Smederevka's popularity is growing so the winemakers revert to old vineyards planted during 1980s. Smederevka as variety was named after the town of Smederevo. It is called Smederevka throughout the Balkans (from Zagreb to Thessaloniki) while in Bulgaria it is known as Dimjat. Very fertile, late, indigenous variety of Serbia. It is characterized by medium resistance to diseases and high sensitivity to low temperatures. Grapes accumulate up to 20% of sugar and maintain high acidity. Because of these features, well chilled smederevka is the ideal partner for summer days. Those who are fond of Cortese variety from Piedmont (wine Gavi di Gavi) will discover in Smederevka an authentic local alternative. And I'm delighted by the news that local wineries are seriously considering the production of Smederevka sparkling wine. Smederevka 2013 - Janko Cellar - Grapes for this wine originate from an old vineyard in the village of Drugovac. This is a wine that contributed to improving the reputation of Smederevka on the Serbian market and at the same time showed to the greatest skeptics that Smederevka needn't end up as spritzer. With the first sip of this wine, it comes to my mind that one wine label from Janko Cellar is named "Vrtlog (Vortex)". This wine is more simple than its peer, the "real" vortex, but in Janko's Smederevka one can also experience continuous vortex of aromas and overlapping od citrus and apple notes. In the mouth, this citrus-apple character continues. The overall impression is subdued, acidity tamed just enough to bring plentiful freshness without disturbance.

 Djordjevo Belo 2014 - Ilić Cellar - The winery was founded in 1985 in the village of Vodanj. The family tradition in winemaking continues on 2 hectares of vineyards. Wine label Djordjevo Belo hides Smederevka. Refreshing, low alcohol. Distinct acidity, the nose dominated by notes of apple gliding into mild oxidative impression which covers slightly all  the freshness of citrus and mild herbal finish. Short-bodied wine.

 White Wine 2014 - Vodnjanka Winery (Ilić AM) - Another Smederevka from Vodanj. Fresh, distinctive varietal character, slightly more body than in the previous wine. In the glass, one can feel the enthusiasm of winemaker, which brings optimism about the future of Smederevka from Smederevo.

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