After breakfast at the Holiday Inn, I rush to the famous clock on the facade of the Skopje City Museum. The former railway station building that survived the devastating earthquake in 1963 and the huge clock that stopped at 5.17am at the time of the disaster are reminiscent of that period and tell the story of the city’s continuous rise and renewal of life.

At 9 o'clock sharp, Ivana Simjanovska arrives and together, we head south towards the town of Prilep. The drive to Prilep confirms to me how fascinating and beautiful the nature of North Macedonia is. The meeting place of the Mediterranean and mountain climates has created a unique flora and fauna that could only be found in the Balkans.

Prilep is a town that is also known as the capital ruled by Marko Kraljević, the son of the Serbian king Vukašin Mrnjavčević. The remains of Marko's Tower (Marko's Fortress perched on the hill above the town) also testify to that. However, this time the reason we are heading to Prilep is not Marko Kraljević, but we want to taste Prokupac wine from an old vineyard planted in 1934.

Prilep and its surroundings were once covered from all sides by vineyards. After the Second World War, agricultural reforms in Yugoslavia promoted tobacco production as the primary agricultural activity in this area, so the vineyards kept shrinking in the years that followed. However, even nowadays, there are some inhabitants of Prilep who cultivate vines and produce wine for domestic needs. There are 2 registered wineries in the area. One of them is Sarika Winery, which nowadays continues the wine tradition of the Stanoeski family.

Goce Stanoeski greets us in front of the winery, to our surprise, dressed in a military uniform. After finishing his work in the army, Goce usually goes to his vineyard or cellar. Whilst reflecting on possible links between military career and winemaking, I remembered that even Probus, the Roman emperor of Syrmium planted vineyards with his soldiers on Mt. Fruška Gora in the 3rd century AD. Anyhow, military discipline and meticulousness can only be considered an asset in the wine cellar.

Goce Stanoeski took up winemaking by continuing the tradition of his father. He currently cultivates two vineyards (covering half a hectare) on Sarika plot, at an altitude of 730 meters. In 1934, a mixed vineyard with a large number of varieties was planted on that plot. Over time, the vines were replanted with planting material from the same vineyard. Therefore, genetic resources of old Prokupac, Plovdina and numerous old grape varieties, as well as Riesling, Župljanka and Rkaciteli have been preserved. On a plot located slightly lower on the slope of Sarika hill, there is a young Vranac vineyard planted in 2016.

We had the opportunity to taste Prokupac from vintages 2020 and 2019. Goce annually produces fewer than 200 bottles of Prokupac, so he doesn't need marketing much since the wine sells out quickly on the winery doorstep. Although Prokupac as a variety features somewhat lower acidity, Prokupac from Sarika hill always gets enough freshness owing to the fact that the vineyard is positioned at a higher altitude.

Prokupec 2020 - Sarika - The wine teeming with youthfulness, ruby purple-coloured. Alcohol 12.5%. Acidity 7.1 g/l. Although Goce added 10% Vranac to add color intensity a bit, Prokupac has retained its character. The wine was not aged in oak barrels. Medium body, harmonious, yet not overly complex structure, aromas of red and black fruit, red currant, blackberry, without dominance of cherry notes that are typical for Prokupac wines. Stylistically, the wine is more similar to Prokupac from Toplica than to Prokupac from Šumadija. Excellent balance, ripe tannins. 86/100.

Prokupec 2019 - Sarika - Already the first sip of this Prokupac tells us that 2019 was a much better year for Prokupac in Prilep. 10% of Vranac was added to this wine as well, but the resulting color is darker and more intense. Alcohol 14%. Fuller body than with the previous wine. On the nose, a floral note comes to the fore in addition to typical aromas of Prokupac. Also, the impression in the mouth is more structured, more complex, flavors of blackberry, fresh black grapes, red currants, sour cherries. Wine that would benefit from further aging for a few years (but considering the quantities, it is unprobable). 89/100.

In the wine cellar, we also had an opportunity to taste Vranac from vintage 2020, samples from the tank and barrel (local oak from Prilep, medium toasting). Ivana and I concluded together that it was a pity that the quantity of wine produced was a limiting factor, because all wines from Sarika winery are stylistically well-defined, with a distinct character and identity, technically flawless, without faults. Exactly what the market expects from small wineries. Goce is determined not to buy any grapes but to produce wine exclusively from his vineyards.

Although rain clouds hung over Prilep, we did not want to miss the opportunity to see vineyards on Sarika hill. Constant breeze, vineyard shielded by evergreen forest, sandy soil. Goce knows every vine in the vineyard. He tells us unmistakingly the name of grape variety. With military precision, he marked every vine stipulating basic info about it. Goce points out that Prokupac in this plot shows good results, it is resistant as a variety, and that is why he loves it.

According to official statistics, vineyards of Prokupac in North Macedonia cover 480 hectares, but the market is still leaning towards Vranac-style wines if we talk about local wine culture, so there are few winemakers who make varietal Prokupac. Therefore, Prokupac grapes usually end up in a blend with Stanušina, Plovdina or other grape varieties.

After the tour of Sarika winery, we hurried back to Skopje. A welcome dinner and an official opening ceremony awaited us to mark the start of the BIWC 2021 competition at Chateau Kamnik.

At Chateau Kamnik winery, the BIWC judges were greeted by the entire winery team, whilst revelling in a magnificent panoramic view of Skopje from the vineyards and a glass of sparkling wine and strawberries. This was followed by a tour of the winery and wine tasting in the barrique cellar, surrounded by oak barrels made of French and American oak.

The gala dinner started with salmon served with horse raddish, pea and green apple mousse, crispy squid ink sand, micro veggies and caviar, and the logical choice of wine was Pinot Grigio 2019. This was followed by fireworks of flavors and a spectacular menu accompanied by wines from Chateau Kamnik. A particularly emotional moment was the opportunity for the wine judges to taste Merlot Single Vineyard 2010 Reserva, which once won a grand trophy at BIWC 2013 in Bulgaria. Terroir Vranec 2011 Grand Reserva, which won a gold medal at the BIWC and a regional trophy for Central and Eastern Europe at the Decanter competition in 2013, further stirred emotions.

The welcome dinner showed  that the organizers made a serious effort to present the wine and gastronomic scene of North Macedonia and the Balkans in the best way at BIWC 2021 held in Skopje.

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