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News / 09/16/2012 / 1161

LIVE FROM SMEDEREVO AUTUMN 09.09.2012

  Based on last year's impressions from Smederevo Autumn festival, and the diverse program announced by organizers which didn't offer many events related to wine and wine-makers, it took me a couple of days to decide to make a weekend visit to see this year's edition of our oldest event dedicated to grapes and fruit.The fact that Smederevo is not far away from Belgrade surely contributed to my decision to go there, as I truly enjoy driving along Smederevo road and admiring the landscape dotted with orchards and vineyards and the mighty Danube which carves through Banat plain on one bank, and prevents hills covered by vineyards and orchards on the other bank to cross into the plain... And when I reached Brestovik, I stopped the car and took a village road in order to get a better view which simply cannot leave anybody indifferent - Smederevo vineyards on the hill slopes alongside the Danube river...


 There used to be more vineyards in the past, but year after year, vineyards are slowly returning to landscape of this part of Serbia. So, there is still hope that Smederevo Autumn will enrich its atmosphere of fair with some more events that are related to wine or grapes.


A detail from this year's program of Smederevo Autumn still echoes in my head - a panel debate on "Safety and Health Protection at Work". Wouldn't it be more logical to have a lecture on past, present and future of Smederevo vineyards instead, or a lecture on strategy of promoting Smederevka - a variety which made Smederevo famous, or a panel discussion with Smederevo wine-makers where they would share their experiences about problems which they face and tips how to improve wine production ? ! ?

When I arrived in Smederevo, I immediately went to the main square, because my primary target was the Wine Town. Beautiful stands of local wineries where one can buy wine at very affordable price  ranging from 300 to 500 dinars. Unlike last year, this time I have seen wineries Jeremić and Janko. As the most important wineries from this area, their presence is simply a must. Beside these, there were also a few small wineries from Dobri Do. Beside wine, visitors could also buy must...



 

 

After I bought some grapes, I didn't stay long by the main stage on the city square where a group of children performed Šumadija dances in traditional costumes. In the vicinity of the church, a large Jelen Beer stand attracted a crowd of men "who know why" (as the commercial says) they seek refreshment with cold beer... I proceeded to the Fortress, bringing to mind last year's images -  made-in-Arilje underwear, made-in-China pots, fake Taiwan watches... I have an impression that there are fewer trinkets this year - although I still wonder which women buy so many bras during Smederevo Autumn and why, as almost every 4th stand in a row offered underwear at the price of 50 dinars and bras at the cost of 100 dinars...




 

When I finished this exotic tour of the Smederevo's autumn flea market, I went to the stands with food and drinks where the savoury aromas of traditional dishes such as mućkalica, wedding cabbage stew, baker's potatoes, roast meat and mekike...

 

 

 



Immediately next to them, all villages from smederevo region presented their treasure on stands - both in terms of fruit, grapes and vegetables and traditional handcrafts and local delicacies. This section of Smederevo Autumn deserves praise because all stands are decorated with a lot of good taste, which makes an excellent contrast to all the kitch and glitter of the flea market nearby...





Inside the Inner Town of Smederevo Fortress, a theatre play was performed which brought us back in time, to medieval Smederevo when Despot Đurđe ruled Serbia...



 

 



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Tomislav Ivanović

Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.

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