September is truly an intense month when it comes to wine events. Virtually every weekend, you are given a range of events to choose from, and depending on distance from your home, you will decide which one to attend...On 15th September, I knew from an early morning that the day ahead of me will be long and packed with excitement. The day before, I agreed with Miloš, my friend from Pusula Winery and a knight of the Wine Order Singidunum, to attend together Grape Harvest Days in Palić (North Serbia) and Vršac Grape Harvest Days in Vršac (north-east Serbia).We left Belgrade early in the morning, somewhat anxious about the weather. Clouds in the sky didn't look promising, but we felt appeased by the fact that Grape Harvest Days will be held at the Great Terrace of Palić Mansion, so exhibitors will be sheltered from possible rain.

There was no traffic jam on the highway, so we reached Palić earlier than originally planned. Therefore, we had some extra time to stop by Wine Court in Hajdukovo. We were welcomed by owner Laszlo Hupert and his wife Erika Fodor. While we were approaching the hotel and restaurant through rows of vineyards planted on sandy soil, we could notice detrimental effects of this summer's drought on the vines. Sand is permeable to water, and in addition, it gets easily heated by the sunshine, so temperature in the vineyard soars. Later on, we learnt from Laszlo that a portion of the vineyards is covered by drip irrigation system, which mitigated harmful effects of drought to some extent.



Anyhow, Laszlo also grows in his vineyards Spanish variety Tempranillo which ripes early and requires a lot of sunshine. In Spain, this variety is often blended, thus giving to wine added stability and full body, to some extent similar to Cabernet Sauvignon. This year, Tempranillo in vineyards of the Wine Court dealt extremely well with drought.

After a tour of the hotel and restaurant, Laszlo also brought us to his wine cellar where we had the pleasure of tasting Italian Riesling (Welschriesling) 2011 directly from the tank. This wine will be bottled and launched in the market only in the months to come. Also, Laszlo presented to us  his wine Don Oliver, made from Hungarian varieties Irsay Oliver and Cserszegi Fűszeres. Grape variety Irsay Oliver was developed in 1930 as a cross of Pozsony x Pearl of Csaba, and it produces medium-to-full bodied wines with intensive aromas resembling our Tamjanika.

As time passed so quickly, we made our way to Palić and Grand Terrace, where wine-makers already started to arrive. Unlike last year, when all wine-makers were located next to the park lane in front of Grand Terrace on improvized stalls, this year each winery got its well-designed stand. I have to point out that this year, organizers have done their best not only to provide better conditions to exhibitors, but also to attract more exhibiting wineries.

Following the opening ceremony of the Grape Harvest Days, the order of wine knights "Arena Zabatkiensis" (Subotica Sands) carried out initiation ritual, where Mr Teofil Isaković passed the test in order to become a new messenger of Subotica knights. A test to become a messenger is somewhat more simple than a test for a wine knight, so beside some theoretical questions, Mr Isaković was also required to identify one of the objects  commonly used by wine lovers which is hidden under a piece of cloth. Of course, he didn't find it difficult to recognize a corkscrew among hidden objects. Afterwards, he solemnly swore to loyalty in Latin language.  This year, Mr Csaba Simon, who has been taking care of vineyards belonging to Tonković Winery from Bački Vinogradi for more than 6 years, received the title of Vineyard Keeper of the Year.



Concerning exhibitors, majority of wineries came from Subotica area. Dibonis Winery presented their wines and brandy at the stand, and we were eager to taste DiMerlot which stands great chance to excel DIShiraz, which made this winery recognizable on the market.



As far as wineries from north Serbia are concerned, Balint Winery and Tonković Winery were also present.



The first time I came across Tonković Winery was at the latest Wine Fair in Belgrade, in Zira Hotel. That's why I was so curious to see how their Kadarka develops. Intense aromas of red cherry immediately filled the glass accompanied with aromas of coffee and caramel. Indeed, a fine elegant wine which exudes oak since this wine aged in barrique barrels. Tonković Winery is unique in Serbia because they grow exclusively Kadarka in their vineyards covering 10 hectares on Subotica-Horgoš Sands region. This variety is thought to originate from Skadar Lake (Skadarka), and it was introduced to Pannonian plain by Serbs in the course of Great Migration led by Arsenije III Čarnojević. I think that it will be particularly challenging for this winery to compete on the market among other wineries since they produce wine from only one variety, but if they persist uncompromisingly in maintaining quality, then these efforts will surely be rewarded. Kadarka still hasn't reached the place it deserves on the Serbian wine market, therefore Tonković Winery stands good chances that in the near future when one says Kadarka, everybody thinks of Kadarka Tonković.



Srem wine region was represented by Tomcat's Cellar, Winery Molovin, Vinum from Novi Sad.



A number of visitors couldn't hide their surprise upon hearing that Pusula Winery comes from Valjevo region, simply because they remember Valjevo for its plums and brandy, but they were also curious to taste wines offered by Pusula Winery.



We stayed at Palić Lake until 15h, and then we had to continue our wine route, because the city of Vršac was a host to Vršac Grape Harvest Days... And it is yet another story about wine, grapes and wine knights...

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